Two days: Taipei & Jiufen

Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall

Start in the vast Liberty Square, framed by the memorial hall, the National Theater and the Concert Hall. The changing of the guard happens hourly.

CKS Memorial Hall MRT

Dadaocheng & Dihua Street

Walk the old tea and dried-goods street, then follow the river to the Xiahai City God Temple, one of the city's most loved shrines.

Lunch in Yongkang Street

Choose between soup dumplings, beef noodles and mango shaved ice. Yongkang is compact and full of good options.

Dongmen MRT

National Palace Museum

Two hours with the imperial collection, then a taxi or bus back towards the city.

Xiangshan sunset

The short hike to Elephant Mountain for the classic view of Taipei 101. Bring water; the stairs are steep.

Xiangshan MRT

Ningxia Night Market

A smaller, food-focused market that locals love. Try the oyster omelette, fried taro balls and squid soup.

Shuanglian MRT

Train to Ruifang

Catch a local train from Taipei Main Station to Ruifang (about 50 minutes), then switch to the Pingxi Line.

Shifen Waterfall

Walk the riverside path to Taiwan's broadest waterfall, then loop back through the forest.

Lunch in Shifen

Eat at a small noodle shop near the station, then write a wish on a sky lantern and release it over the tracks.

Houtong Cat Village

A short train ride and a gentle hour of cats, river views and old mining history.

Jiufen Old Street

Climb the stairs, eat taro balls and watch the lanterns switch on. Stay for dinner in a teahouse above the rooftops.

Back to Taipei

Bus 1062 or a taxi to Taipei. If you are staying overnight in Jiufen, this is when the village finally goes quiet.