Central Taiwan
Misty peaks, lakeside temples and the island's prettiest bike ride.
Photo: CEphoto, Uwe Aranas · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Why go
Sun Moon Lake sits in the mountains of Nantou County, wrapped in tea plantations and forested ridges. It is the classic Taiwan honeymoon destination, but it rewards anyone who slows down: cycle the 30-kilometre loop, take a boat between the villages, and stay overnight so you catch the lake before the tour buses arrive.
The area is also the heartland of the Thao people, one of Taiwan’s indigenous groups. Their food, crafts and stories give the lake a cultural depth beyond the views.
The classic Sun Moon Lake day trip is possible from Taichung, but it is a long day. Two nights lets you cycle, visit the temples and see the lake in different light.
Combine it with a night in Taichung or continue south to Tainan by high-speed rail.
Before you go
Buses run from Taichung HSR station and Taipei directly to Shuishe, the main village, in about 1.5–2 hours. Hiring a driver is the easiest way to stop at the viewpoints.
Frequent buses leave Taichung HSR station for Shuishe, the main village, in about 1.5 hours.
50 minutes from Taipei to Taichung, then the bus to the lake. The full journey from Taipei takes about 3.5–4 hours.
A private driver lets you stop at the viewpoints and temples along the road, where scheduled buses do not stop.
The essentials
The essentials, in roughly the order you might see them. Every pin appears on the map.
Select a pin for a short description, or open the place directly in Google Maps.
A 30-kilometre cycle path circles the lake, passing through tunnels of trees, tea farms and waterfront villages. The section between Shuishe and Xiangshan is especially beautiful.
Rent an electric bike if you are not a regular cyclist; the hills are gentle but constant. Start early to avoid the midday heat.
A grand lakeside temple dedicated to Confucius and the gods of war and literature, with sweeping views over the water and mountains. The architecture is a photogenic blend of northern Chinese styles.
Sunrise from the terrace is spectacular and almost empty. The temple is a short bus or taxi ride north of Shuishe.
The lakeside village of the Thao people, with a market selling millet wine, wild-boar sausage and tea eggs, plus a small cultural centre. Boats from Shuishe dock here.
Try the tea eggs cooked in mushroom broth and the millet mochi. Prices are higher than in the city but the setting is lovely.
A nine-storey pagoda built by Chiang Kai-shek in memory of his mother, reached by a steep staircase through the forest. The top offers the best full-lake panorama.
The climb takes about 20 minutes from the road. Go in the morning before the clouds build.
A low, green-roofed building that seems to grow out of the hillside, with exhibitions on the lake's ecology and a café facing the water.
It makes a natural rest stop on the cycling loop and has clean toilets and water refills.
A theme park and cultural village combined, with performances, traditional houses and a cable car over the lake. It is touristy but a good option for families.
The cable car ticket also gives access to the village; check show times when you arrive.
Taste
Slow-cooked in tea and mushroom broth, sold in steaming pots around the lake. The perfect cycling snack.
Look for millet wine, millet mochi and wild vegetables in the Ita Thao market.
The surrounding hills produce some of Taiwan's finest oolong. Visit a small tea farm for a tasting.
Neighbourhoods
The main transport and hotel hub, with the best choice of restaurants and the ferry pier.
The smaller, more atmospheric village on the southern shore, known for street food and Thao culture.
A quieter area near the visitor centre, with lake views and easy access to the bike path.
Before you go
On the road
Ready-made routes that pass through this part of the island.
3 days
Classic
Taipei & Taichung
From the capital to the lake, by high-speed rail.
2 days
Cycling
Sun Moon Lake
Taiwan's most beautiful bike loop, at an easy pace.
1 week
Classic
Taipei to Kenting
The island in one balanced week.
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