Southern Taiwan
Taiwan's oldest city, and its most delicious.
Photo: CEphoto, Uwe Aranas · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Why go
Tainan was Taiwan’s capital for more than two centuries, and it still feels like the island’s memory. Dutch forts, Ming-dynasty temples, Japanese-era department stores and narrow lanes lined with shophouses are layered together in a city that moves at a gentle pace.
It is also the undisputed food capital of Taiwan. Locals will debate the best bowl of danzai noodles or milkfish soup with the seriousness of a national sport. Plan your days around meals, and leave room for snacks.
Tainan is best experienced slowly. Pick three or four sights, then spend the rest of the day eating and wandering the lanes between them.
It pairs perfectly with Kaohsiung: the two cities are 35 minutes apart by train and feel completely different.
Before you go
Tainan is 1 hour 45 minutes from Taipei by high-speed rail, plus a 25-minute train or taxi from the HSR station to the city centre. It is 35 minutes from Kaohsiung by train.
1 hour 45 minutes from Taipei to Tainan HSR, outside the city; from there a local train or taxi reaches the centre in about 25 minutes.
TRA trains from Taipei take about 3 hours but stop at the central station, a short walk from the historic centre.
35 minutes by local train from Kaohsiung station, with frequent departures throughout the day.
The essentials
The essentials, in roughly the order you might see them. Every pin appears on the map.
Select a pin for a short description, or open the place directly in Google Maps.
Built by the Dutch in 1624 as Fort Zeelandia, the site now combines a reconstructed watchtower, ruins and a museum in a leafy park. It is the best place to start understanding Tainan's colonial history.
Walk down to the old Anping streets afterwards for oyster rolls and shrimp crackers.
A pretty complex of pavilions and gardens built on the foundations of the Dutch Fort Provintia. The stone turtles and red walls are a favourite photo stop.
Visit around 4pm, then walk to nearby Shennong Street as the lanterns come on.
A narrow, curving lane of restored wooden houses, small bars, tea rooms and craft shops. It is one of the prettiest streets in Taiwan, especially after dark.
Come before dinner for the light, stay for a drink. Many places are closed on Mondays.
The oldest Confucian temple in Taiwan, founded in 1665, set in a calm courtyard with old banyan trees. It is a peaceful contrast to the city's busy streets.
The surrounding lanes are full of traditional snack shops; try the tofu pudding nearby.
Two buildings — a striking modern extension and a restored police station — house a strong collection of Taiwanese art from the 20th century to today.
The building 2 café is a good air-conditioned break in the afternoon heat.
A former Japanese naval dormitory turned creative park, with manga exhibitions, design shops and grassy courtyards. It is relaxed and family-friendly.
Check the exhibition schedule; some shows are ticketed. The park is especially lively at weekends.
Tainan's most famous night market, open only on certain nights, with a local, less commercial feel than the big-city markets. Bring an appetite and a sense of adventure.
It is open on Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays. Arrive before 7pm to avoid the longest queues.
Taste
Springy noodles in a shrimp-and-pork sauce, topped with coriander and a slice of pork. Tainan's comfort food.
A clear, sweet soup made with the fish Tainan is famous for, usually served with rice and a soy dip.
A thick slice of toast hollowed out and filled with a creamy seafood stew. Surprisingly good.
Neighbourhoods
The historic core, with Chihkan Tower, the Confucius Temple and the best snack streets.
The old port area, with forts, tree houses and a slower, waterfront atmosphere.
Home to the art museum, the creative park and some of the city's best coffee shops.
Before you go
On the road
Ready-made routes that pass through this part of the island.
3 days
Classic
Tainan & Kaohsiung
Old streets, harbour light and the best food on the island.
1 week
Classic
Round island
The full loop: cities, gorge, coast and the tropical south.
3 days
Classic
Taipei & Tainan
Two cities, one very good eating itinerary.
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