Southern Taiwan
Harbour light, art warehouses and temple dragons by the water.
Photo: dennis · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Why go
Kaohsiung is Taiwan’s second city and its most easy-going big city. The harbour defines everything here: container ships slide past art centres, a ferry takes you to a beach island in ten minutes, and the world’s largest sea-facing music venue glows at night.
It is also a city of grand religious architecture, from the dragon-and-tiger pagodas of Lotus Pond to the vast Buddha Museum in the hills. Give it a full day, ideally two, and use it as the gateway to Kenting.
Kaohsiung makes an easy, sunny counterpoint to Taipei. One day covers the harbour and Lotus Pond; a second day adds Cijin and the Buddha Museum.
From here, buses and trains continue south to Kenting in about two hours.
Before you go
Kaohsiung is 1.5 hours from Taipei by high-speed rail and 35 minutes from Tainan by local train. The airport is 20 minutes from the centre by MRT.
1.5 hours from Taipei to Zuoying station, linked to the centre by MRT and local train in about 15 minutes.
Kaohsiung Airport (KHH) is 20 minutes from the centre on the red MRT line, with domestic flights and a few international routes.
TRA trains connect Tainan in 35 minutes and continue south; slower but handy for intermediate stops.
The essentials
The essentials, in roughly the order you might see them. Every pin appears on the map.
Select a pin for a short description, or open the place directly in Google Maps.
A cluster of old warehouses transformed into galleries, studios, shops and cafés along the harbour. Public art spills onto the promenade, and the light railway connects the different zones.
Rent a bike and follow the harbour path at sunset, then stay for dinner along the waterfront.
Two vividly painted pagodas rising from Lotus Pond, entered through a dragon's mouth and exited through a tiger's. The surrounding temples and pavilions make for a wonderful, slightly surreal walk.
Enter through the dragon and leave through the tiger — local tradition says it brings good luck.
A narrow island across the harbour, reached by a five-minute ferry. Rent a bike, ride to the lighthouse and beach, and eat fresh seafood at the market near the pier.
The ferry leaves from Gushan. Go early for the beach and seafood lunch, and return before the afternoon crowds.
A monumental Buddhist complex built by the Fo Guang Shan order, with a 108-metre seated Buddha, museums, gardens and a pilgrimage hall. It is free to enter and deeply impressive.
Dress respectfully and allow time for the walk from the entrance to the main hall. It is outside the city, so take a bus or taxi.
A swooping, wave-shaped concert hall on the harbourfront, designed by Manuelle Gautrand. The public terrace and surrounding plaza are a great place to watch the port at dusk.
Check the free outdoor concerts and light shows; the building is most photogenic after sunset.
A compact, easy-to-navigate night market near the city centre, strong on seafood, papaya milk and traditional snacks. It is less overwhelming than Taipei's biggest markets.
Try the papaya milk and the grilled squid. The market is a short walk from Formosa Boulevard MRT station.
One of the world's largest performing-arts centres, a vast white canopy floating over gardens and theatres. Even without a ticket, the building and park are worth the trip.
The rooftop is accessible and offers wide views. Combine it with a walk in the surrounding park.
Taste
Kaohsiung is a port city: look for grilled squid, oysters, shrimp and steamed fish around Cijin and the harbour.
A sweet, cold classic sold at Liuhe and in juice shops all over the city.
The southern version is often slightly sweeter and served with a generous bowl of pickles.
Neighbourhoods
The historic harbour district, with Pier-2, the music centre and a growing café scene.
Home to Lotus Pond and the high-speed rail station. Good for temple-hopping and easy transport.
Central, lively and close to Liuhe Night Market and the Love River.
Before you go
On the road
Ready-made routes that pass through this part of the island.
3 days
Classic
Tainan & Kaohsiung
Old streets, harbour light and the best food on the island.
1 week
Classic
Round island
The full loop: cities, gorge, coast and the tropical south.
2 days
Classic
Kaohsiung
A port city with an easygoing edge.
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